CAST ON!

ARE YOU READY?!!!

I sure am!

Let’s all get started on our Mauna Kea Sweater!

We need to measure up! This sweater is designed around the bust line, and to clarify “bust line” I am referring to the fullest part of your bust. The best way to measure this is to have another human help you! Instead of the measuring tape use a length of yarn, twine, cord or heavy string (linen or butcher’s twine works best as it does not stretch).  With your arms hanging naturally at your sides, allow the other human to use the cord and measure across the fullest part of your bust with you wearing a t-shirt. Avoid taking measurements in thick shirts or sweaters. Once the cord measures around your bust, have them clip it AS IS (see below regarding “growing room”) and then you can measure out the length on a measuring tape accurately.

WHY NOT JUST USE A MEASURING TAPE? You can,  but I find so many of us have a tendency to adjust the tape measure. We add a few fingers underneath it for growing room (Seriously? Are any of us still growing? You want this sweater to fit you NOW!). Sometimes we pull the tape a bit tighter to get closer to the (smaller) whole number. The cord or twine keeps us honest. For more info on measuring, read the updated pattern.

Please do take the time to read the pattern careful! We are starting with the neck and i have given you plenty of time to do it. Don’t rush things.

Make sure you:

  • Swatched, soaked, blocked and got the correct gauge!
  • That you decided how you plan to work your colours
  • Measured yourself (or had somebody else measure you)

Once you are ready and have read the pattern: CAST ON!

Mauna Kea Pattern v 2.0

Want to see How To Knit Through The Back?

Need Info On Success In Stripes? Keep Reading!

When you change colours in the stripe sequences keep in mind a few surprisingly simple things and it will make your adventure that much easier!

  1. Read ahead and see if you switch colour back to back. For instance: You knit 2 rows in Colour #3 and then you switch to Colour #1 for 2 rows and then you will go back to Colour #3. TIP=> Carry the ends up the side during this sequence! If it is just a few rows and only one extra strand to carry up, you may find this helpful!
  2. Switch the colors in a sneaky way…before the round starts! When you knit the last 2 Purl stitches just before the beginning of round marker  make your switch there! By tucking the switch of colors in the purl stitch it will virtually disappear behind the scenes. It also makes a great place to weave loose ends!
  3. Leave length on the ends when breaking yarn. I never cut mine shorter than 3 inches. Remember You have to work with them later, so give yourself some space!
  4. Give the old yarn an extra tug as you go around with the new. It helps anchor it and prevents that stitch from getting wonky. I will sometimes tie my old to the new with just a tie, not a knot.
  5. Breathe easy and have fun!

 

25 thoughts on “CAST ON!

    • Aloha Laurel! Have you had a moment to watch the videos yet? I give you a better view of the sweater in them and it shows off the colour much more clearly. I even joke about how so many of you comment that the sweater is knit in South China Sea. It is not. I used the Dark Skies Ombre Kit and worked it in the Dark Emphasis Stripes (so the darkest skein of yarn is Colour #5 when you knit) I do show a wee little swatch of the South China Sea in fingering weight. In the video it is easier to spot the difference. Hope this helps!

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      • Laurel says:

        Yes, I’ve watched the videos and swatched. Still trying to decide but I really like the dark stripes and the sweater on the model in the pattern looks like a blue colorway. Isn’t the Dark Skies a grey colorway? This is why I was wondering if it was the South China Sea.

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        • Isn’t it crazy how colors appear on monitors? I see it as Greays and blacks everywhere I look, but so many of you see blue. When you look at the pattern photo is it blue there as well? I give you my word, I knit it in Dark Skies Ombre and it is shades of black grey through light. How funny different computers interpret it differently! =)

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  1. Question – the pattern says to start with #1, which in Zing! is gray. I am ok with that for the neck, but I am not interested in having the neon green emphasizing the area below my waist. I want to know that it would be ok to start with #1, then move to #5 and then go in order? My goal is to end with the gray at the bottom. Would this work?

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    • Are you planning on doing a Fade for the sweater? if so, simply assign the colors in the order You want and work in that order from top to bottom. Start with the colour you want and plan it out to end with the colour you want. You absolutely can arrange the colors in any way that suits You! Does this help?

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      • Yes, I am doing a fade. I guess my question was more about will there be enough of #1 to do the neck and also to do the bottom. Are we using most of each skein in the body of the sweater, saving enough for the arms or will we use less of each skein than that? I hope that makes sense. Otherwise, I can start with #5 and then go in reverse order.

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        • Could you share with me what size you are doing?
          And you want to start and end with the same colour, correct? When you start, do you mean just the mock turtleneck or the top through the increases?

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      • I am doing to 42/44. And yes, by the neck I was just thinking the mock turtleneck. However, in looking at the 18 rows, I see that there is a change of color throughout them, so I will start with # 1 instead of #5 and remember to reverse my numbers all the way through. Sorry, I should have read through the pattern before asking!

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  2. IowaGirlinTexas says:

    My first real stripes pattern that I care about how the changes look… What about the various videos and tutorials (I could link if need be) that show how to weave in as you go? Meaning you still cut a tail, but don’t wait til the end, you weave/join/whatever technique to weave it in as you are knitting the next stripe. Pros/Cons?

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    • Oh my goodness YOU ARE A GENIUS!! If you email me the links I will add it in to the blog post ASAP. I never weave in as I go, but i am willing to learn and do right along side of you fabulous knitters! Isn’t it so rad to be in a community willing to share ideas and improve upon them!? You are GOLDEN! =)

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      • I always try to weave, or knit, in as I go. There are times when every other stitch in that area looks a little stretched, but since it’s on the edges, I don’t worry about it, I figure I’d rather have those ends taken care of than worry about weaving them all in at the end.

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        • It does make sense…Kind of like my husband cleans the kitchen as he cooks and when he is done it is neat and tidy and I am amazed. I, in contrast, fix dinner in half the time and we eat sooner, but when everything is pau, i have to head back to the kitchen and be Cinderella! (actually my kids are awesome kitchen helpers so I am not alone, but you get my meaning)

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  3. Susan Scott says:

    My neckline is rolling a bit (the non-ribbed sections). I gather from the picture above that yours did, too, and I imagine that once it is blocked and worn, this will not be a problem. Correct?

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    • It does roll a bit, just the nature of the knit. You loose a lot of that when you block it (as you can see better in the pictures of the mod wearing it, and me in the intro video) If that isn’t your thing you would have to adjust it a bit. Perhaps knit a few rows in garter.

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    • I does have a particular slant, but as you can see from photos as well as when i wear it in the first video tutorial, it does not affect the collar in a negative way. Look carefully at the images for the pattern and you can see there is a slight roll, which I chat about in the Raglan Increase video. If this rolling is something you strongly dislike perhaps play around with a garter row or two to prevent it. For me it was essential to the casualness of the sweater and attributes to the overall relaxed drape look.
      If the bias is something you want to avoid a technique i have used in other designs is KTB for Row 1 and Knit on row 2 KEEPING IN MIND NOT to do that technique on the sleeves. The sleeves need to keep this effect as it plays in to not only styling but altering it also alters gauge and fit.
      Does this help?

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