Increasing Our Fun!

UPDATE SATURDAY NOVEMBER 8: I AM UPLOADING A VIDEO TO WALK YOU STITCH BY STITCH THROUGH SHIFTING MARKERS AND STARTING THE INCREASES.

WHEN IT IS LOADED YOU WILL SEE A VIDEO EMBEDDED HERE JUST A WEE BIT BELOW, SO KNIT WITH ME THROUGH THIS STEP!

 

What A Treat it has been for me to see all the AWESOMENESS you are creating! Some of you are making my twitter and Instagram feeds simply DELIGHTFUL!

{{Of note! I know so many of you just love the chatting on Ravelry! For those of you who find that as your best fit: chatter away! Post photos and updates and laugh and encourage each other there! Please do me the courtesy of posting questions and specific pattern details here though. I have very limited on-line time at this season in life and I am laser focused on helping make You a successful sweater knitter. To that end I have the blog set to “ping” me when you need help as I work, so the fastest response will come from the blog or twitter. =) Knowing that you all love love love your Ravelry forum I do have a little fun up my sleeve for that! Look for something on the Space Cadet Thread Friday night!}

Onwards to INCREASES!

Here is the pattern for your next adventure!Mauna Kea Pattern copy W:Raglan increases (Updated)

I made with you in mind, so please give it a look before you start knitting just to see what you’ll be creating here.  As a dancer for many, many years I found it helpful when the choreographer would show us all the steps and give us the overall feel they wanted first and then break down the arrangement for us to master. It brought clarity to me.

Some of you may not need this, but for those who do: enjoy!

AND HERE IS AN EXTRA TREAT FOR YOU:

I star in a B Film, low budget and a bit hoarse as I have…well…you’ll hear…

Bottom line: If you are wanting to SEE how to work the re-setting of the stitch markers and the first bit of increases, grab your knitting and work along with me in real time!

 

I have posted a few tutorials HERE that may be helpful when doing the increases. If you think they might be a bit tricky, may I suggest grabbing your swatch and giving it a go there? Build your confidence, master the new skill and then e n j o y  t h e  k n i t t i n g!  Not only are you NOT knitting this sweater for my approval or anyone else’s…you are not knitting it on anyone’s timeline! (Well not to have things completed that is!)

One last thing:

Don’t be shy! I swear I am a very approachable knitter! You may email me about any old thing at connectingwithmel@gmail.com

You can not tweet or tag me on instagram too much!

My favourite moments have been seeing YOUR FACES as you knit this sweater. This sweater was not simply created as a pattern for some awesome yarn. It erupted from my love of my home, a home I miss very much. I remember every beach where I dragged the sweater, even knitting it at the location where the beautiful photos were shot in Poipu, Kauai. Seeing you knitting this, hearing your thoughts…well, it is a J O Y!

I will try to pop in to Rav and say hello since it is such an important place for you all…but please pop in places I frequent and say hello to me too! For now, enjoy the pics and keep a look out for YOURS appearing here for all friends in this to see! (I left the names on the Instagram pulls so you all can look for these folks and tell each other HOW STELLAR YOU ARE! Simply click on an image below and see them in full frame!)

62 thoughts on “Increasing Our Fun!

  1. Patti says:

    I’m not there yet but do you have suggestions/alterations to the increases if we had to base our needle choice on the stitch gauge but that meant the row gauge is off?

    Like

    • There is a helpful post coming up on Monday for knitters on that very topic! =) Basically it just reminds you what I shared in the first videos: as this is a top down raglan increase sweater you can try it on as you go! If at the end of the increases you need to add a bit more you will continue in pattern for increases. Remember what I said before though: TAKE NOTES! If you add rows or stitches be sure to record that in your pattern notes so you can adjust the stitch counts as you knit.
      Hope this helps!

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      • Patti says:

        Thanks…this is a Christmas present for my daughter and she doesn’t live nearby anyway. I guess I’ll see if I can find an old sweater in her closet and go by that. I do have her measurements to pick the correct size though. No trying on is possible…winging it here!

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  2. Becky says:

    I am having trouble with understanding where to start the increases. The set up row implies that you go though both sets of sleep e stitches, but round 1 does not seem to indicate to start at the front sweater where the set up row ends. Help!

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    • Aloha Becky! I tried to clarify in the pattern just updated (before 9 pm 11/7) You shift the stitch markers in the set up round which may seem a little strange as you read it, but when you work it it should make sense. But just in case:
      The stitches I pointed out in the video by the arms will shift outwards by 3 stitches. So you will adjust the stitch markers to reflect that.
      As you knit around the first round after the set up you will work across the front stitches (remembering not to ktb any more for front and back)—Keep in mind on the fronts and backs there is a bit of a difference with the increase as they have a knit stitch as well as an increase, the sleeves immediately before the stitch marker or immediately after will have the increase worked.
      Does this help at all?
      Also there are 8 stitches increased on each increase round.
      I will add that as well as clarify with a note in the pattern in the hopes of helping others!

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      • Aloha! The updated pattern helps. The shifting of the markers made sense, but I wasn’t getting the new starting point. Part of the set up row takes you across the front to set the new beginning of the round. That works for me. Mahalo!

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      • I found the set up round straight forward but it reads as if it ends working across the sleeve (working in the established pattern and then adding in the extra 3 kbl stitches). The instructions for the first increase round read as though you are starting across a sleeve (m1L, work in established pattern… ).
        Just to clarify, is it the front and back that have the increases 1 stitch away from the marker and the sleeves have the increases right next to the marker?

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        • I had to switch the two sections around: K1 M1L knit to 1 stitch before marker M1R K1, sm M1L work in established pattern, etc…. It worked out beautifully once I figured out where the K1 went. I may have had to start the raglan increases several (read 3 times) before I got it right.

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        • The Knit stitch is that long line of stitches I pointed out on the fronts and backs of the sweater in the Raglan Increase Video. A wee little tutorial is going to post this morning to hopefully clarify things and make everyone feel more confident!

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  3. Jennifer says:

    I have issues understanding where to start the increases, too. I understand the shifting of the markers, but at the beginning of the setup round for the raglan increases, we’re not replacing the beginning of round marker until later. By the time we get to the end of the setup round for the raglan increases, the last ktb3 is effectively 3 stitches into the beginning of the back section.

    Round 1 of the raglan increases says to “M1L, work in established pattern to marker.” I’m pretty sure if I went from that last ktb3 straight into the M1L it wouldn’t be correct. Not to mention, if I just powered through it, once I got to the marker (which is the beginning of round marker and the start of a sleeve section), it’d all go wrong because the pattern says to knit until just before the next marker.

    So, after the last ktb3 of the setup row, are we supposed to knit across to get back to the beginning marker before starting round 1? I’m pretty sure that’s what we’re supposed to do, but it’s not completely obvious to me in the pattern.

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  4. caroline says:

    Hi Mel, I hope my question will make sense . . . As we are increasing the sleeve stitches, we’ll still need to keep the 3ktb, p2 pattern going, right? I just made my first increase inside the sleeve stitches and now have 4 knit stitches but when I come back around, I should make the first one a purl, yes? Or am I hopeless confused?

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  5. caroline says:

    Thanks for replying! I’m still new to knitting so not sure on all the terminology — “graft” means to make it follow the set pattern?

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  6. I’m having some issues with how things are looking where I change colour. If the colour change is on an increase row, then the row starts with an increase and the next stripe colour. It’s not looking right so I ripped it out but I’m wondering if it will be better once the ends get sewn in?

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    • When you change colors and firn yourself having trouble you may want to do the change in the purl stitch just passed the start of the row. The purl stitches “sink” that is to say they recess a bit in to the fabric of the sleeve. It makes the transition a bit less noticeable. I find things look do look much neater once loose ends are woven in, you have a bit of liberty with digging and manipulating the spaces created from colour changes.

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      • I am up to row 57 and did a stitch count. .if i finish out all the increases as written for the medium size, i will have 302 stitches, but they are in the wrong configuration,i will have 71 for each sleeve and 80 for thr front/back. how do you think this happened? where did i go wrong?????????

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        • Aloha! You didn’t go wrong anywhere! Give yourself a pat on the back! Remember, we “borrowed” some stitches when we reset the stitch markers? Adjusting them comes very soon. Great work! But before you think you are all finished with this step, i have a little extra homework for you! See #9 on the Action List or just click this link: http://wp.me/P4SXha-6Cq

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          • I read that and it makes sense, but the fact that the pattern specifically calls for a stitch count breakdown of the sleeves, back and front is confusing. When i knit a top down raglan, i want my increase lines to run down my arms in the right spot, i dont want them lounging around too far in the front of me, they belong with the arms.

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            • I am sorry for the confusion, it dovetails with the part of the pattern released today with getting the best fit. Part of this knit 2Gether is breaking apart the pattern in to bits that I don’t intend to be confusing to you, they seem to be natural breaks. I agree with you on the arm increases and i think you will see from the photos as well as in the next steps, the increases with the arms are definitely not lounging in front. The sweater is very streamlined and neat.
              I hope after you try the sweater on and assess your fit and any adjustment ideas I share, you are able to forgive me for any confusion I may have caused you. Theses little extras are not supplied and shared with the final pattern, they are just perks of this time for us together.
              Again, my sincerest heartfelt aloha for any trouble.

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  7. Would you please check the stitch counts post raglan increase? I’m making the large. per my math:

    We cast on 39,17,39,17 = 112
    Moved markers (moving 3 stitches from each end into the sleeve): 33,23,33,23 = 112
    Increased first round plus 26 more = 216 increased
    With two increased per section, wouldn’t we have:
    87,77,87,77 = 328

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    • Aloha! I hate to seem dense…actually I hate being dense, but i did just re-check the math. I keep getting the same number. However, I am going to touch base with the tech editor and we will crunch the numbers once more to see why you are getting one result and i am getting something different. If you could give me a little time to verify and then to assess our differences between your numbers and mine, I could then see how best to get us on the same page.

      In the meantime you can still do the activity that posted earlier regarding Getting Fit! Head here for that: http://wp.me/P4SXha-6Cq =) Mahalo for your patience.

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  8. If my row gauge is off – and it’s looking like it will be, although I’ve got a second swatch drying right now – how do I adjust the striping sequence if I choose to do dark emphasis striping? Wondering if the gradient option is a better one if I’m going to have considerably more or less rows in the finished sweater.

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    • Let’s see how far off your row gauge is, you may find it isn’t too bad. Share with me your final results when you have them.
      For the striping, if you want the dark colour emphasis as the photo in the pattern shows you assign the colors from your ombre kit as lightest being #1 to the darkest being #5.

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        • If it isn’t too much trouble can you lay out a ruler and photograph your swatch for me? You can email me the photo at connectingwithmel at gmail dot com I would like to help you out and get you started. If you are already down to 2s I may need to give it a good look for you ! =)

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          • Thanks Abigail! I will pop over and give it a look in just a bit! My daughter has a few friends over and we plan to teach them to knit! They all want to make some snazzy scarves. I will keep you posted on their success and I will pop over on Instagram from my phone in just a bit!

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  9. I had some quiet time to work on unknitting and reknitting my start on the increases. It seems to be working, but I realized that I may have been knitting to the marking, doing a M1R, moving the marker and then doing a knit one, so I will either undo again, or leave it. I know these increases are not that hard, so I think I will write out the actual stitch sequence in one or two straight line on a separate piece of paper. If my old knitting teacher was still here, I would go see her and she would fix each one without taking it off the needles. I am not quite there yet. I may just start again altogether.

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    • Very often I find myself jotting down cues on a notecard to keep with me to clarify things in my knitting, so your idea resonates with me. Maybe doing the stitches along with the video a few times will help you as well? Let me know how else I can assist you if clarification may help.

      I am sorry your old knitting teacher is not there to fix it for you. It is a frustrating feeling having to unknit and rework. Sending you positive vibes across the miles.
      With my best aloha to you,
      Mel

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      • Mel, thanks for your quick reply. I know how to do all the techniques, and I get the set-up row. It is just me not paying attention. I do think that now I have had all this “practice” I might start again.

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        • Remember: Knit with good vibes…and if you want to take an afternoon to just veg come back later! We all learn so much from our mistakes. At our home we call it “Failing Forward”. Knit not only HOW you want, but WHEN you want! =)

          Like

  10. IowaGirlinTexas says:

    Hey Mel,
    Just finished my swatch on size 7 circulars. Unblocked was 29 rows per 4″ and 21 stitches per 4″. After soaking (by hand, in the sink as recommended by the yarn) and drying (patted flat on a towel-did not stretch it out as I don’t imagine I would do that with a sweater) my blocked swatch is still 29 rows, but 19.5 stitches. This is my FIRST everything: swatch, 100% Merino, superwash, sweater, KAL, you name it!
    So…is the slight shrinkage normal with this yarn?
    Secondly, I like the fabric the way it is swatched. I wouldn’t want it any looser, although maybe slightly “tighter” if anything. If I went to a smaller needle, I may get that extra row, but would probably also get too many stitches/in and end up with a too small sweater, right?
    So I’m thinking I stay with the size 7’s and get started. Then just really watch how things are going and measure and try on frequently…?
    Thanks,
    Kristin

    Like

    • Aloha Kristin! I am so excited you are having so many NEW THINGS!
      This yarn is bouncy and springy so stretching out and drawing in are a part of Lyra’s nature.
      Here is a quick idea if you are game to try:
      Clip the swatch with clothes pins to a hanger. On the bottom of the swatch clip as many across the bottom as you can. Hang it up for the afternoon and observe any stretch in it. Do you like it this way? Do you think it is too loose? Did your swatch numbers change when you remeasure? Let me know and we can decide on adjusting the needle size. If you aren’ t in a rush to get this done super fast, your First experience can be layered with LOADS more firsts and you can learn SO MUCH!
      =)

      Like

      • IowaGirlinTexas says:

        Although it looked stretched while hanging (I used pants hangers as didn’t have clothes pins) when I re-measured the counts were still 29 rows, but back to a pre-blocked 21stitches. This yarn is so springy! Seems like maybe I can manipulate it after it’s done. Going to stick with size 7’s and caston soon. I haven’t measured myself yet, so if I stick with 29 rows and 19.5 stitches AND end up between sizes, should I go for the larger size to make sure it’s not too small? Thanks for all your help!

        Like

        • It is such a springy yarn! Such a spunky personality!
          In the beginning part of the pattern I share a bit about if you are between sizes. Since the nature of the sweater is so stretch and it has such a forgiving fit, I personally would go down to the size rather than up. But that is personal choice. Remember too, once you start knitting we can always add a few more increases to adjust your fit.
          Does this help?

          Like

          • IowaGirlinTexas says:

            Yes! Glad to see you back. I have cast on for large based on bust measurement and am working the neck now. Love these colors (South China Sea) and this yarn! Thanks for the photos on fit. Question about that…it looks in the pics as if you are pulling the sleeves together in your underarm. Should they be stretched to reach each other? I didn’t quite understand how I should determine if the sleeves fit (since there really isn’t a sleeve yet-at least to me-my first sweater as you’re aware). Thanks for all the helpful pointers! Did you get my email about weaving in ends as you go?
            Enjoying this process. Thanks again.
            Kristin

            Like

  11. Abigail says:

    Ack, I need help! I followed the written instructions for shifting the markers and did my first two increase rows, then was on the blog and decided to watch the shifting marker video, and I think I did it wrong. I didn’t see about changing the bor to marker 2 (start of left sleeve) from marker 1 (end of right sleeve). So, I just ripped back and will start over, but if wanted to clarify: in each set of increases, there is a m1, a k stitch, and a m1. From the video, I think it looks like the extra k1 is in the front/back, not within the sleeve sts. Is that correct? This is backward of how I had it following the pattern which was that the k1 was on the sleeve side of the marker. Thoughts?

    Like

    • Aloha Abigail,
      Sorry for delay in getting to you. I hope you understand.
      The easiest way to remember how to work the increases correctly is the knit stitch runs along the fronts, it is not part of the sleeves. The increases for the fronts and backs are not identical to the sleeves as most often raglan increases are. The Knit stitch belongs on the front and backs either directly before working on the sleeve, or once you have finished he sleeve and are preparing to move on to the front or back portion.
      Does this help?

      Like

  12. Hi Mel. My sympathies to you and your family on your loss. When you have time, I would like to ask for a confirmation. For the Ombre, it says to change to the second color at the 10th repeat of the increases. I just wanted to verify that this is to change before the 10th repeat, and not after. I know it is only two rows, and really shouldn’t make a difference. The pattern is very clear, it’s just me with a question.

    Like

    • Aloha! Mahalo for your kind words!
      Can I ask you a quick question first? Are you planning to do a gentle fade or more pronounced?
      If gentle is your answer: On the 10th repeat switch to colour B, next row A, next row B, next row A, next row and all the following B.
      If more abrupt is your answer: On 10th row switch to B and work in that colour.
      Does this help? If not let me know!

      Like

      • Yes, this helps. I haven’t decided about the gentle fade or the abrupt fade as it looks so much different in sweater size. But either way, start with the 10th repeat. Thanks for the quick response.

        BTW, good news, I have gotten into the flow of the knitting. YAY! I think I must be out of practice, but at least for this past weekend, I was back in the saddle.

        Like

  13. Mel, I need some advice. I have about 4 more rows until I have completed the 30 increases for the XL. I am doing to Ombre, and I am using color #4 as I am doing to Ombre in reverse order. I do not have much yarn left. How much yarn do I need to hold back for the sleeves? Half the skein? A quarter of the skein? I think I have maybe an 1/8 of the skein left, but I have not weighed it. Should I just switch colors now? My gauge is on target.

    Like

    • Aloha Becky!
      At this point in your knitting you are almost done with the sleeve cap and you won’t need this colour again for the sleeves. However, now you could begin to do a gentle ombre fade using alternate rows for this colour and the next. Does this help?

      Like

    • And could you clarify with the increases to which you refer is that the raglan increases? Since you are reversing the order I want to make sure I have where you are in the pattern pinpointed.

      Like

        • If you are at the raglan increase part then the yarn you are using is creating the front and back parts of the sweater, while at the same time being integrated in to the sleeves. You will not need to come back for the sleeves later to work, just continue in this manner:
          If you are doing an abrupt colour change simply work your next colour in after the increases are finished. So if you plan to do a gentle transition work 1 or 2 rows in colour B and then 1 or 2 rows colour C, repeat twice– thereby creating a gentle transition. When you return later to work the sleeves simply pick up with colour C and work.

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  14. UPDATE: I compared the pattern sent at the time the increases were started and the complete pattern that was sent out sometime after that. The directions for the color change are DIFFERENT. Now I am deciding whether to pull out 70 rows, and pick up the stitches or just bag this and send the yarn back to Stephanie. I cannot say how frustrated I am.

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    • Nooooo! Do not pull out these rows, you are on the way to finish this well. As you won’t be needing this yarn in the sleeves further. The rest of the sleeves are only going to use the next two skeins. I think for you those skeins are #3 and #2. Does this make sense?

      Like

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