Preparing to get fit!

Aloha Everyone!

This page is dedicated to sharing how to get the best fit possible for yourself with this sweater. In order to really make sure things are developing in a way that suits You let’s look at a few things:


  •  You have been increasing for the fronts and the backs as well as the sleeves on every increase round which occurs every other round.
  • We have been seeing a steady, even, all around increase. We moved our stitch markers a bit to create an interesting texture in the sleeves and increases.
  • Before we readjust them back (since the sleeve stitches have “borrowed” them temporarily, 3 stitches from each stitch marker remember?) let’s see if we really are ready to be finished with increases.
  • To get the best assessment of this I want to challenge you to devote today, when ever your “today” is, to not being rushed. Skipping an opportunity to really look over your progress is like skipping a gift to yourself— the gift of a great fit.


Let’s prepare our sweater for observation…and if I may be so bold…adoration!

You will be moving stitches from your needle to waste yarn. Even if your needle had a cable of 87 feet nothing in the world beats removing stitches from that sturdy cable on to waste yarn this particular way. If you look above you can see the waste yarn tied (as a structured needle would pull in) differs from the waste yarn left free to hang. Little adjustments matter. So let us work this as best we can.

You will need:

  1. waste yarn of the same weight (3 or 4 pieces)
  2. a yarn needle
  3. your sweater
  4. your pattern or notebook to record things and a pencil

Taking a length of waste yarn and your needle, slip the sleeve stitches from one marker to the next on to your waste yarn. Keep this length of yarn long enough to play with your stitches comfortably, but separate from other sections.

Tie the ends of this section off and repeat around your sweater.

When done you will have your 4 segments (2 sleeves, a front and a back) safe and secure on 4 bits of waste yarn




Bear in mind the nature of the sweater is to stay up around your neck like a collar, and even pucker a bit. Gently pull it to adjust it. As you try this on, keep your pattern and pencil close by to record your response to these questions.

Note: When slipping on the sleeves, slip your arms through the tied waste yarn as if it were the sleeve bottom. This will allow you to fully take in the way your sleeves are going to fit.

The sleeves should fit closely to your underarms as shown.

Do not worry if they are a bit wider than you prefer. We can “give back” those borrowed stitches to the fronts.

Are the sleeves too snug? We can keep those borrowed stitches. We can even add more!

What if the sleeves fit, but the length is too short? We will definitely address that in a moment!

Don’t rush through this! Take your time and consider what your answer is, even if you need to look, re-look, adjust, re-adjust….re-adjust the re-adjustment…

  • Check your fit all the way around. You may ask for a friend or spouse to help you with this and just snap a few iPhone pics. Or get up close with your mirror!
  • Your sweater should fall across the upper bust as shown in the first large photo.
  • Remember to gently tug your sweater a bit as it will stretch after soaking and blocking, as well as stretch a bit more due to the weight of the lower portion of the sweater hanging below. I mentally factor in an extra 1/4 inch of stretch above what my swatch measured for this normal occurrence.
  • Pull out your trusty swatch and look over the swatch and your knitting to see differences!
  • Need a bit more length? No worries. You can fix that! Want a bit more width? You can fix that too!
  • Need a bit of help removing or replacing the stitches? Head Here and watch the tutorial. Replace the sleeves as you took them off and then let’s move on!


Making the Sweater fit YOU not You fit in to the sweater:

==>If you have an all around sense that the sweater needs to be larger, continue as you have been working up to this point. Repeat the increases at 2 repeat intervals and then recheck. If you are working a solid or gradient fade continue with the colour you are using. If you are striping, continue to work the stripe sequence as it is written, but make note on the chart of where you are.

==>If you feel the sleeves are fine and the front a bit small, work 1 or 2 more increase sets but increasing only for the front and back.

==>If you feel the front and back are fine but the sleeves are a bit tight,  work 1 or 2 more increase sets but increasing only for the sleeves.

FOR ALL CHANGES, PLEASE RECORD WHAT YOU DID. We will need to refer to this as we adjust the colour variations that will happen. Nothing to worry about, we just need to remember what we changed, where we changed it and what amount of change happened.


As you consider the fit up to this point, keep in mind we are going to add more stitches once the sleeves are removed and we will continue to add stitches as we work our way down the sweater.  If in doubt simply wait to see our next bit of the pattern. I may be releasing the next bit a few days early since I have so many Speedy Gonzales Knitters in this K2G! Remember, for those of us who are not supersonic, this isn’t a race, so do not feel bad wherever you are in your knitting journey!

For those of you who have the right number of stitches, but you think they are in the wrong spot, they aren’t. The right and left sleeve have 6 shared stitches belonging to the front of the sweater. They also have 6 shared stitches belonging to the back. In the next part of the pattern you adjust all the stitches for sleeve removal.

I hope these ideas are helpful for you! One of the benefits of doing this as a K2G in parts is that I am able to share with you specific areas you can easily adjust for yourself and your preference. We will have this opportunity as we knit the body and bottom as well as the sleeves soon.

Happy Knitting!




34 thoughts on “Preparing to get fit!

  1. Patti says:

    I’m not there yet but this type of input from the designer of the sweater is wonderful to make sure this sweater fits well and also give us ideas we can use when we knit other sweaters. I am currently trying to adjust parts of a sweater that was gifted to my daughter but it seems a lot easier to size as you knit rather than retrofit later.


    • Lol! I hear you on the retro-fitting! I have had to redo things a few times…usually my own knitting snafus! I am delighted you are feeling as if there will be applications you can keep tucked away for later too!


  2. Susan Scott says:

    This ability to customized is why I almost exclusively knit top down sweaters – and I have learned to take them off the needles and assess the size several times throughout the knitting process. It may take a bit of time, but in the end you have a great fitting sweater!


    • I agree Susan! It takes a bit longer and you have to make sure to record changes made (so you can integrate them in to things that may arise later in the knit) but it sure is worth it to get a great fit!


  3. Mine were numbered 1 as the darkest and 5 as the lightest. Unfortunately I frogged it. I’m starting over tonight. Yes, I did swatch but I’m having a hard time deciding. I really like the look of the stripes, but hate so many ends. Decisions, decisions…I’m katwmn1 on Instagram.


    • I understand the loose ends driving you crazy, but…and this may sound a wee bit “out there” if you accept that it really is A Step In The Pattern vs. Ugghh Finishing “stuff” it does a bit of shifting in your thought process. Also, treat yourself to a great audio book or a new album and then its a reward instead of a punishment!


  4. I did swatch, but I still think I’m going to stripe…I just really hate weaving in all of the ends. I frogged it last night, so I’m starting over again tonight. My Fervent kit was numbered 1 darkest to 5 lightest…hmm.


  5. Abigail says:

    My beef with ends is that I have to look to weave them in. I can knit without looking and in bits here and there, so finding the time to put ends in is trickier. My daughter’s been wearing hats without the ends put in because it got cold and while the hats were finished the ends weren’t…. Alas. I finally put the ends in on her hats last night, and her new legwarmers tonight, and made some progress on the sweater!

    I’m not to this step yet but wonder could you provide the schematic with measurements marked for us? I like to compare as I go.


  6. I’m just about to the end of the increases AND the “Stripe Sequence For Medium”. My question is this – when we get to the end of the “Stripe Sequence for Medium” do we start again at the beginning of this sequence if we need to add more increases? Or do we just keep repeating color #1 one? Or do we start over again with the neck stripe sequence? I’m doing the dark emphasis stripe and I’m looking at the pictures but I cannot quite figure it out…I know ultimately it is my preference, but I don’t want to run out of yarn and I don’t really want last stripe (lightest color for me) to keep getting wider….

    Your thoughts?


    • Aloha Kelly! Keep the row number you are on even with the stripe patter sequence round, even if you are increasing. Work directly from the pattern, and use the new portion that posted for the next part of our K2G if you are running out of stripe rounds. I share with you all how to alter things for these adjustments after we work past the bustling. Giving a listen to the audio of the Work That Body will help you with this I think!
      Let me know!


      • Thank you Mel!! Yes, I think I understand and I am glad that there is more stripe sequence to work with… 🙂 I plan to put a pic on Instagram some time today to show my progress. 🙂


    • Aloha Again Cindy!
      =) Deep breaths my friend!
      Once raglan increases are done, Large only has 3 more rows in the body that you will need colour #1 for. You will use it in the sleeves as well, but just for a couple rows. Sorry about the close shave, but the large does cut it close! I thought it would be easier to tell size large to recycle the yarn from swatches (or even knit an extra row in colour #2) rather than have you gals get the extra kit and not use it. Size large definitely eeks by with little to spare, but Frugal Mel would much rather rip out test swatches and/or gauge swatch than have you left with another full sweater kit.

      =) hope this helps!

      I actually address this a bit in the surprise tutorial that you all will be hearing about very soon =)

      Did I hear from you regarding our VKN? Will you be able to join in? I hope so! it would be nice to “meet”!


  7. Hi Mel,
    Soooo I thought I was moving along quite well until I realized at row 18 of the neck I had neglected to include the ktb3 & p2’s for the sleeves, lol. I took a deep breath & frogged it and started again. I finished my 18 rows, moved my stitch markers around for the increases. Right now I’ve completed 2 sets of increase rows. Like you I have the Fervent kit & the style I chose was the gentle transition fade and the dark gray as color 1 (size large). Now in the tips section of the pattern it says around increase set 9 you move to color 2. My question is do I introduce color 2 like I did in the swatch, 2 rows of color 2, then 2 rows of color one and repeat 3 times before switching to color 2? What do you recommend?


    • Aloha Jen!
      Since you did the swatches you have a bit of extra help with this decision. I suggest recreating the swatch you like. If it is the gentle fade then I would alter it as your swatch was created. If you find after 2 repeats in your sweater you feel that is enough, then go with two. Sometimes when done on a larger scale the colour shift blend a bit less dramatically than on the small swatch, so 2 may be just fine (vs. 3)
      Does this help?


      • Thanks Mel! That definitely helps. Another question just occurred to me now that I’m thinking of the swatch on the larger scale. I’m wondering now if introducing the new color two rows at a time may not have the same visual impact as it does in the swatch. Like maybe I should make it 3 or 4 rows. Have you ever made a garment using the gentle fade technique? If so how did you approach introducing the new color.


        • I did! My Pau Hana sweater pattern was made entirely around the ombre fade. For that we did the alternating between colors 3 times for gentle and immediately for an abrupt transition. I suggest 3 for a very subtle transition, but if you hit 3 and want a bit more go for it! Just be sure to write down how you did it so that all the other bits are worked the same way as well as the sleeves. =)


  8. Mary Lee Fischer says:

    I am confused, I am starting the Side pattern. Set up says p1,k to 1 st before m, p1,sm,p1,ktb2, p2,ktb. 2,p1,sm,repeat I don’t have any markers to move the second repeat. Unless I am starting this at the wrong place. I started the set up where you join front to back. Am I starting at the wrong place? It doesn’t seem like I will have the ribbing in the right place.
    Thank you
    Mary Lee Fischer


    • Aloha! I sent you a voice message answer I hope helps. There are 4 sm assigned in the pattern when you divide sleeves from body, so you should make sure to have them places correctly and the next portion should be a breeze. Give a listen to the message with your pattern handy and see if that helps. Email me back if it doesn’t! Happy knitting


Share Your Thoughts!

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )


Connecting to %s